11. December 2016 · Comments Off on Cistus and Labdanum · Categories: Research

Here is a diagram of the extraction processes for this material.

Cistus and Labdanum Extraction Diagram

23. November 2014 · Comments Off on The Right Chemistry: What Chanel No. 5 and TNT have in common | Montreal Gazette · Categories: Article, Research

The Right Chemistry: What Chanel No. 5 and TNT have in common | Montreal Gazette.

JOE SCHWARCZ, SPECIAL TO THE MONTREAL GAZETTE

One of the most fascinating facets of chemistry is the process of discovery. Think of TNT and chances are you think BOOM, not Chanel No. 5. But Trinitrotoluene played a major role in the formulation of one of the world’s most famous fragrances.

19. October 2014 · Comments Off on Smell Turns Up in Unexpected Places – NYTimes.com · Categories: Article, Research

A team of biologists at Ruhr University Bochum in Germany has found that our skin is bristling with olfactory receptors. “More than 15 of the olfactory receptors that exist in the nose are also found in human skin cells,” said the lead researcher, Dr. Hanns Hatt. Not only that, but exposing one of these receptors to a synthetic sandalwood odor known as Sandalore sets off a cascade of molecular signals that appears to induce healing in injured tissue.

Smell Turns Up in Unexpected Places – NYTimes.com.

13. September 2014 · Comments Off on Video on the making of Vetiver in Haiti · Categories: Article, Research, Uncategorized

04. September 2014 · Comments Off on Interview with Jean-Claude Ellena · Categories: Article, Interview, Research

I came across this 2009 Research Report from Institut Francais de la Mode on iTunesU and thought it might be of interest to others. I always find Jean Claude Ellena’s perspective interesting.

Interviews with:
Jean-Claude Ellena : Perfume up against the market
Annick Le Guérer: Perfume, from Egyptian temples to the temples of consumption

Frédéric Walter: Art and Perfume: from fascination to co-creation
Catherine Têtu : Perfumes on the edge of the mass market

Download .pdf here:

Research Report iTunesU Perfume

17. June 2014 · Comments Off on Harvard Professor To Send The World’s First “Scent Message” Across The Pond · Categories: Article, Research

Harvard Professor To Send The World’s First “Scent Message” Across The Pond

03. February 2014 · Comments Off on Excellent Schiff’s Base Compendium · Categories: Research

A Schiff base, named after Hugo Schiff, is the product of a reaction between a compound containing an animo group (NH2) and an Aldehyde. In perfumery the amino group used most often is Methyl Anthranilate, or possibly Ethyl Anthranilate. When the Aldehyde and the amino group are mixed together in 1:1 molar quantities (one molecule of the aldehyde for every molecule of the methyl anthranilate) the result is a Schiff base (and water). Quantities can be determined by looking up the molecular weights of the compounds, and using those to determine the correct ratios.

Schiff’s Bases are highly coloured bright yellows and oranges, Cinnamic Aldehyde or Vanillin Schiff’s Base are nearly black.

Aldehyde C16, Aldehyde C14 (“Peach”/ gamma Undecalactone) and Aldehyde C18 (“Coconut” /gamma Nonalactone) are not aldehydes and will therefore not react and make a Schiff Base.

Schiff’s Bases are commercially available. For instance Aurantiol is a reaction of Methyl Anthranilate with Hydroxcitronellal, Vertosine is a base using Triplal, Verdantiol or Lilyantine created with Lilial.

Here is  an excellent Schiff’s Base Compendium created by Paul Kiler, Perfume Composer of PK Perfumes

PkPerfumes.

 

Other reading material: Use of Schiff base reaction product of methyl anthranilate and canthoxal in augmenting or enhancing aroma or taste of foodstuff or chewing gum

I was lucky enough to receive some Lavender from my next door neighbour and friend. So I set up the distillation and squeezed out some fresh Lavender Oil…. and Hydrosol.

Beautiful!

Click to watch Distilling movie

Distilling Photo

 

Distilling Photo

The Joy of Oil Distillation

photo

Oil Collecting on the top of the hydrosol

 

10. September 2013 · Comments Off on Harvesting Sweet Grass (Hierochlöe odorata) · Categories: Research

Today we harvested sweet grass from a garden plot just outside of the city. Cherry, a very kind lady, showed us the area and allowed us to harvest a few bags, and also bring home actual plants that I will propagate.

Tonight I will prepare a tincture in fractionated coconut oil to sit for a few months. I am also going to attempt to distill the wonderful coumarin out of the plant. Here is a link to the distiller that I use for essential oil steam distillation. It works really well and I am very happy with it. This adds another dimension to perfumer creation when you can create your own oils.

Collected Sweet Grass ready for distillation

Collected Sweet Grass ready for distillation

 

I believe I will end up with hydrosol and no oil, since everything I read tells me that simple distillation will not produce an essential oil from the plant….. but that never stopped me before. I like to see for myself.

For more information on Sweet Grass

Well…. they were correct. No oil, but I did get Hydrosol, and a tincture … and a wonderful smelling braid, and had some fun doing it.

 

 

Putting the Bio-mass in

Putting the Bio-mass in

Sweet grass in Biomass flask

Sweet grass in Biomass flask

IMG_7086

Sweet Grass Braid made by my wife

Sweet Grass Braid made by my wife

24. July 2013 · Comments Off on Wearing perfume inhibits behaviours that project negative impressions · Categories: Research

Findings suggest that wearing perfume inhibits behaviours that project negative impressions.The results of the observer rating showed that the interviewees in the perfume group used less non-symbolic movement when wearing perfume. Analysis of the video clips showed that they decreased their non-symbolic movement for about 6  seconds in the third block. The degree of smiling and eye contact remained the same. These results suggest that individuals who wear perfume have the potential to improve their visual impression by using less movement that produces negative impressions.

Quoique plusieurs considérations méthodologiques limitent les conclusions tirées de ces résultats, la présente étude a montré que le fait de porter du parfum a le potentiel de provoquer des changements dans le comportement non verbal et d’améliorer les impressions visuelles.

12. June 2013 · 2 comments · Categories: Research

A list of the most essential aroma chemicals in fine fragrances.

BASENOTES FORUM

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