23. July 2013 · Comments Off on ITHAKA – C.P. Cavafy · Categories: Quotes

Ithaka C.P. Cavafy

As you set out for Ithaka
hope the voyage is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
angry Poseidon—don’t be afraid of them:
you’ll never find things like that on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
wild Poseidon—you won’t encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you.

Hope the voyage is a long one.
May there be many a summer morning when,
with what pleasure, what joy,
you come into harbors seen for the first time;
may you stop at Phoenician trading stations
to buy fine things,
mother of pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
sensual perfume of every kind—
as many sensual perfumes as you can;
and may you visit many Egyptian cities
to gather stores of knowledge from their scholars.

Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
Arriving there is what you are destined for.
But do not hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,
so you are old by the time you reach the island,
wealthy with all you have gained on the way,
not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.

Ithaka gave you the marvelous journey.
Without her you would not have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.

And if you find her poor, Ithaka won’t have fooled you.
Wise as you will have become, so full of experience,
you will have understood by then what these Ithakas mean.

C.P. Cavafy – Poems – The Canon

08. June 2013 · Comments Off on The figure of the month | In the R · Categories: Quotes

700,000 … This is the impressive number of pipettes consumed in a year by the twelve perfumer’s assistants at Robertet Grasse

26. May 2013 · Comments Off on excerpt “Diary of a Nose” · Categories: Quotes

“Nowadays, most perfumes are made of ambroxan, phenyl ethyl alcohol, citronellol, coumarin, hedione, heliotropine, hydroxycitronellal, iso E, ionone, lilial, methyl ionone, synthesized musk, patchouli, synthesized sandalwood, salicylate and vanillin. What dictates this choice of products is their unchanging characteristics, their linearity. They are fragrant substances manufactured in vast quantities and used in all perfumes: they are tools.”  –  Jean-Claude Ellena

Jean-Claude Ellena, 65, was born in Grasse, in Provence, the son of a perfumer. In 2004, he became in-house perfumer for Hermès, where perfume sales have since more than doubled. The company set up a laboratory for Ellena near Grasse in a late 1960s architect’s villa surrounded by black pines and blessed with a view of the Côte d’Azur through full-length windows. Ellena’s new memoir is entitled: “The Diary of a Nose: A Year in the Life of a Parfumeur.”

26. May 2013 · Comments Off on What is a perfumer? · Categories: Quotes

‘Perfumers are chemists no more than is the painter who manipulates chemical colours. In itself, composing a perfume has nothing to do with chemistry.

The Compositeur must not let himself be influenced by systematic thoughts. Only by considering each odour by itself and in its rapport with the other odours, without any preconceived idea, will he make the best use of it”  

Edmond Roudnitska (1905–1996) French master perfumer and author, Edmond is known for creating some of the most famous perfumes in the world, such as Dior’s Eau Sauvage and Diorissimo, and Rochas’s Femme. Many of his creations are still in production today. – Wikipedia

“The very selection a perfumer makes of the raw materials to be used as ingredients in a new formulation is the best of all possible standards for appraising the originality, the initiative and the genius of the creative perfumer, on which the success of the new perfume is entirely dependent. And while it is possible to devise a method which will enable the apprentice perfumer to understand and to acquire some sort of the technique, in perfumery as in many other fields many will be called but few chosen, since the essential qualities which lead to success cannot be taught, any more than can be taught enthusiasm, the joy of living and of creating, and the love for one’s calling. These are innate qualities without which there is no great perfumer.”

– Jean Carles (1892–1966) French perfumer who worked in Roure (now part of Givaudan) in the early 20th century. He was the founder of the Roure Perfumery School and served as its first director in 1946. He went on to create works such as Ma Griffe (Carven) and Miss Dior (Christian Dior). – Wikipedia


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23. January 2013 · Comments Off on Welcome message from M. Ferdinand Storp, drom CEO · Categories: Article, Quotes

FROM Grasse Perfumery> Grasseperfumery’s Blog
22 / 01 / 2013
The welcome message from M. Ferdinand STORP, DROM CEO

Dear Students,

Also a warm welcome from my side – from the side of the company which follows and supports you during your journey into perfumery here in Grasse in 2013.

You already made a great step in your life, because you already discovered one of the most beautiful arts on our planet. And you were accepted at this famous perfumery school in Grasse. But of course this is only the beginning. To become a perfumer is a long journey, and during this journey, you have to be persitend and you have to stay courious.

When I started my way in the perfumery business (and I am not a perfumer), I was sure that I can change the world. Well, that did not work out completely, but many things really worked and confirmed to me, that perfumery is not only a job, it’s a beautiful way to enrich the world and at the same time your personal life with passion and joy.

And now I am really sounding like an old man (and I guess in your age someone with 46 years is an old man) – your time is limited, so don’t waste it living someone else’s life. Don’t be trapped by dogma — which is living with the results of other people’s thinking. Don’t let the noise of others’ opinions drown out your own inner voice. And most important, have the courage to follow your heart and intuition. They somehow already know what you truly want to become. Everything else is secondary. You have to learn a lot to become a perfumer but at the same time you have to find your one way.

The big Steve Jobs told his creative peolpe always – “Stay Hungry. Stay Foolish.” And I have always wished that for myself. And now, as your way into perfumery begins, I wish that for you.

Stay Hungry. Stay Foolish. Thank you and good luck.

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