Day 5 – Fougères

Start the day with another test of Lemon Oil, Mimosa Abs, Cedarwood Oil, Petit Grain, Clove, Clary Sage ( I get tripped up thinking it is Rosemary), Lavadin, Black Pepper, Galbanum, and Ylang Ylang.In Class 03

Comparisons again of Jasmine, Tuberose, and Ylang.

Then on to further description and identifying of Natural materials
EUCALYPTUS (Globulus) Oil with it main component Eucalyptol, carvone, very close to rosemary but used rarely in perfume. TAGETE Oil from Argentina, a flower from Africa with it’s apple/mango aroma. Warming CORIANDER Oil that is full of linalool., and finally the black olive, leathrery, ambery of the beaver’s CASTORIUM @ 1%. Used in old Chypres but not really used anymore.

We explore more classic perfumes:  Chanel 19, floral, powder, green, galbanum, sillage is overdose of iris. CHANEL 5 with lots of naturals and it’s classic aldehyde, jasmine, rose, ylang. Definite overdose of aldehydes floral and not a chypre. YVRESSE by YSL a fruity fantasy Champagne Chypre with fruit. AIR DU TEMPS – N. RICCI citrusy, creamy, jasmine ad spicy(carnation) and COOL WATER by Davidoff with the first introduction into the market with fresh, marine ozone, ambroxan.

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We begin work on a Fougère, a family that works really well for men. The first fougére was Houbigants Fougére Royal (1882) and contained notes of lavender and the synthetic coumarin, which smells sweet and hay-like. The oldest fougére still available today is Guerlain’s Jicky (1889). Fougéres are typically herbaceous and a little woody and the family contains very few women’s fragrances. Some other classics would be Canoe and Brut 33.

Laurence gives us the elements of a Fougère base (Lavender, Bergamot, Geranium, Vetiver, Oak moss Absolute, Tonka Bean Absolute, and of course Sandalwood) to create after we work out the amounts and dilutions…. and then add out own personality notes to it. I choose to add Cinnamon and Calone. The Calone must be reduced for the second sample as it has buried everything else. Much Better the second time. As a second “experiment” I try adding Cedarwood, Rosewood and Cis-3-Hexanol…. interesting, but again too much of the synthetic.. they are very powerful in the formulas making it very linear.

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Another fantastic day and a last day for one of our classmates who enrolled in one week only. A nice box lunch outside at the picnic table. We have to get creative and end up pushing the cork into the bottle of Rosé, as there is no available corkscrew…. if that is your biggest issue… it is a good day.   :o)

the weekend rest….

3 Comments

  1. I wonder what is in my favourite perfume Samsara, by Guerlain. I am thrilled that you are enjoying this training….and look forward to the creations you make when you return.

    • As a matter of fact we just spoke of Samsara today. One of the key things is an overdose of Sandalwood. top notes of bergamot, lemon, ylang-ylang, peach and green notes, middle of jasmine, iris, narcissus, violet and rose. The base is composed of sandal wood, vanilla, Tonka bean, amber, and musk. The nose behind this fragrance is the man himself in 1989… Jean-Paul Guerlain.

  2. Fantastic! Sounds utterly fascinating. Experience of a lifetime. I don’t understand a word of it! Would love to smell some of the smells though. Thanks for the updates, keep em coming.
    Congratulations man!

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