20. April 2014 · Comments Off on Creed Accord by perfumer Jeroen Sparla · Categories: Formulae

Here is a four ingredient per drop formula titled Creed Accord provided by perfumer Jeroen Sparla.

I have converted the per drop formula he very kindly offers on his website and put it into Chris Bartlett’s Excel Template Formula Calculator that he very kindly offers on his website.

Since I weigh everything and do not use drops, I converted the drops and here is my excel accord formula of Jeroen’s Creed Accord, and here is a  PDF-accord-formula

I  like the results of the combinations in this basic accord, thank you Jeroen.

The 3% Ambergris tincture that I use in “my lab” is actually from two different suppliers. Douglas Decker’s Scentsual Antiquities and Linda’s Perfumer’s Apprentice (I don’t believe they have any at this time).

 

03. February 2014 · Comments Off on The Founding Of Aromatherapy · Categories: Uncategorized

 

 

03. February 2014 · Comments Off on Excellent Schiff’s Base Compendium · Categories: Research

A Schiff base, named after Hugo Schiff, is the product of a reaction between a compound containing an animo group (NH2) and an Aldehyde. In perfumery the amino group used most often is Methyl Anthranilate, or possibly Ethyl Anthranilate. When the Aldehyde and the amino group are mixed together in 1:1 molar quantities (one molecule of the aldehyde for every molecule of the methyl anthranilate) the result is a Schiff base (and water). Quantities can be determined by looking up the molecular weights of the compounds, and using those to determine the correct ratios.

Schiff’s Bases are highly coloured bright yellows and oranges, Cinnamic Aldehyde or Vanillin Schiff’s Base are nearly black.

Aldehyde C16, Aldehyde C14 (“Peach”/ gamma Undecalactone) and Aldehyde C18 (“Coconut” /gamma Nonalactone) are not aldehydes and will therefore not react and make a Schiff Base.

Schiff’s Bases are commercially available. For instance Aurantiol is a reaction of Methyl Anthranilate with Hydroxcitronellal, Vertosine is a base using Triplal, Verdantiol or Lilyantine created with Lilial.

Here is  an excellent Schiff’s Base Compendium created by Paul Kiler, Perfume Composer of PK Perfumes

PkPerfumes.

 

Other reading material: Use of Schiff base reaction product of methyl anthranilate and canthoxal in augmenting or enhancing aroma or taste of foodstuff or chewing gum

03. February 2014 · Comments Off on Essentially Me Impressions: the individualist voice of Alec Lawless | Memory Of Scent · Categories: Article

British Natural Perfumer Alec Lawless Dies

Essentially Me Impressions: the individualist voice of Alec Lawless | Memory Of Scent.

aleclawless.blogspot.com

18. November 2013 · Comments Off on Researcher Develops Hydroperoxide Detection Method for Fragrance Allergens | PerfumerFlavorist.com · Categories: Article

Researcher Develops Hydroperoxide Detection Method for Fragrance Allergens | PerfumerFlavorist.com.

02. October 2013 · Comments Off on The Seduction of Scent- Ideas with Paul Kennedy | CBC Radio · Categories: Article

I was lucky enough to receive some Lavender from my next door neighbour and friend. So I set up the distillation and squeezed out some fresh Lavender Oil…. and Hydrosol.

Beautiful!

Click to watch Distilling movie

Distilling Photo

 

Distilling Photo

The Joy of Oil Distillation

photo

Oil Collecting on the top of the hydrosol

 

23. September 2013 · Comments Off on Researchers Identify 10 Categories of Smell · Categories: Article

Researchers Identify 10 Categories of Smell

 

Working with a standard set of data, Andrew Dravniek’s 1985 Atlas of Odor Character Profiles, the researchers applied a mathematical method to simplify the olfactory information into coherent categories, similar to the way compressing a digital audio or image file reduces the file’s size without, ideally, compromising its usefulness. The team identified 10 basic odor qualities: fragrant, woody/resinous, fruity (non-citrus), chemical, minty/peppermint, sweet, popcorn, lemon and two kinds of sickening odors: pungent and decayed. Senses such as hearing and vision can be discussed in terms that most people understand and that are tied to measurable physical phenomena.

Categorical Dimensions of Human Odor Descriptor Space Revealed by Non-Negative Matrix Factorization

 

10. September 2013 · Comments Off on Harvesting Sweet Grass (Hierochlöe odorata) · Categories: Research

Today we harvested sweet grass from a garden plot just outside of the city. Cherry, a very kind lady, showed us the area and allowed us to harvest a few bags, and also bring home actual plants that I will propagate.

Tonight I will prepare a tincture in fractionated coconut oil to sit for a few months. I am also going to attempt to distill the wonderful coumarin out of the plant. Here is a link to the distiller that I use for essential oil steam distillation. It works really well and I am very happy with it. This adds another dimension to perfumer creation when you can create your own oils.

Collected Sweet Grass ready for distillation

Collected Sweet Grass ready for distillation

 

I believe I will end up with hydrosol and no oil, since everything I read tells me that simple distillation will not produce an essential oil from the plant….. but that never stopped me before. I like to see for myself.

For more information on Sweet Grass

Well…. they were correct. No oil, but I did get Hydrosol, and a tincture … and a wonderful smelling braid, and had some fun doing it.

 

 

Putting the Bio-mass in

Putting the Bio-mass in

Sweet grass in Biomass flask

Sweet grass in Biomass flask

IMG_7086

Sweet Grass Braid made by my wife

Sweet Grass Braid made by my wife

17. August 2013 · Comments Off on Madeleine · Categories: Uncategorized

The Madeleine is, to all intents and purposes, an analogue odour camera. Based on current perfumery technology, Headspace Capture, The Madeleine works in much the same way as a 35mm camera. Just as the camera records the light information of a visual in order to create a replica The Madeleine records the chemical information of a smell.

If an analogue, amateur-friendly system of odour capture and synthesis could be developed, we could see a profound change in the way we regard the use and effect of smells in our daily lives. From manipulating our emotional well being through prescribed nostalgia, to the functional use of conditioned scent memory, our olfactory sense could take on a much more conscious role in the way we consume and record the world.

Madeleine by Amy Radcliffe, a student at Central Saint Martins, is at its core a camera that captures scents in place of images. Considering how powerful that particular sense is when it comes to memories, it is only natural that some people would be attracted to the notion of being able to save it for nostalgia’s sake. Yet while recording visual memories has never been easier, odour-based ones have been left in the dust.

According to PSFK, Madeleine by Amy Radcliffe “draws on “headspace capture” techniques pioneered in the 1970s by Swiss fragrance chemist Roman Kaiser, for obtaining the composition of rare botanical scents for the perfume industry.” The retro design of the ‘camera’ references this 70s heritage in a striking way.

17. August 2013 · Comments Off on European law on allergenic substances under discussion. · Categories: Article

In Brussels there is something in the air: the European Commission clash with perfume producers in a “battle of scents”. A report from the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) is on the negotiating table. It contains over 300 pages that recommend restricting some natural ingredients that cause allergies, and banning outright three ingredients.


Allergic reactions trigger blow to perfume… by euronews-en

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